I'm lucky enough, and of course old enough, to have worn
dozens of beautiful selvage jeans. I've worn in original Levi's from
the 50s and 60s, and from the early '90s on, many brands including Evisu,
Lee, Levi's Capital E, LVC, Samurai, Full Count, Mr Freedom,
Sugarcane, SDA, Roy Slaper and many more.
For many people, jeans that come close
to the classic pairs of the 1950s are the ultimate holy grail. Yet
this is a search that can have no final destination; the original
jeans varied hugely, depending on the cotton used in a particular
year, and there were countless other variables, even before we think about how a
pair of jeans is worn and washed. All we can expect, in modern jeans,
is an interpretation of that aesthetic; and in terms of '50s homage
jeans, very different interpretations can still be very convincing.
Over recent years, the fashion for
super-fast-crocking, high-contrast denim, as popularised by companies
like Samurai and Ironheart, has arguably subsided in favour of more
subtle, slow-wearing interpretations that evoke more closely the feel of 1950s jeans. One small maker in the
forefront of this move is undoubtedly TCB.
I first heard about the brand early in
2013; I believe the company, founded by Hajime Inoue, was founded in
2012. I was lucky enough to be asked to participate in a contest to
wear-in a pair of 1950s models, at the beginning of 2014. Here are some photos
of my pair, and how they've worn in, plus an interview with the main
man himself.
This '50s pair undoubtedly rank as some
of my favourite Japanese jeans; they take a long time to wear in,
just like the originals, have many gradations to their fading, have
some slubbing, but not too much, and via subtle features like the
puckering and crinkling which is revealed as they age, just had a
certain 'rightness' to them. Rock fans will know that TCB was a motto for Elvis Presley and his musicians: taking care of business. Inoue-san has done exactly that.
The' 50s pair embodies much of the TCB
aesthetic – all their designs are workwear-oriented, and my
favourite items include their Navy shawl-collar jacket, and the new
cotton duck vest. You can check out more at
TCB's blog, which more
than most companies, focuses on how the jeans evolve with wear. Note these are jeans designed to be worn the old way - lots of wear, lots of washing.
My particular pair is on its home
straight; the Superfuture contest concludes at the end of the month.
Four out of five pockets on mine have worn through, although the
knees are holding together, just. They feel like old friends, and I
will miss wearing them every day.
This interview was conducted aid of Google translate; it adds a certain enigmatic, dreamy quality, but I think the sense is still there. I will add the dates later. I started wearing the jeans in September 2014.
A brief Q&A with Hajime Inoue
When did you first become interested in
vintage jeans?
It was affected by a lot of people, so
I can't decide on one person.
I was affected by the old clothes man's
shop assistant who passed in school days and the superiors who met
after I moved to Kojima, and American old movies, a Japanese drama in
'90s. I think it's quite blessed with an encounter after jeans are
produced.
What did you do before starting TCB?
When I was in [my] teens, I was working
as a salesperson at a tailor's shop.
I was handing wonderful of the person
who makes jeans (craftsman) down to a customer. I was to do daily
service repeatedly, and charm to a craftsman and admiration were
full. In 2000, I have begun to move to Kojima of Okayama-ken at
twenty years old and work for a sewing factory.
What's your favourite 501 style? 1940s?
1950s? 1960s?
From the late 40's to '50s jeans.
Because there is still an atmosphere of work clothes. Dyed
fabric is darker. A thick sewing thread.
Your jeans seem to wear in like
originals – traintracks on the outer seam, and the way the
yoke seam crinkles when it's washed. Was that hard to achieve?
The first characteristic of TCB jeans is
puckering. Please compare the [result] after having done the first
wash because I set a sewing machine for cotton yarn.
Which aspects of your jeans are you
proudest of?
I think that it is the most important
to work at the distance that is the nearest to a craftsman.
Tell me about your workshop. Do you
have many old machines?
Our products are we're good at vintage
style sewing(sewing machine, Union Special.....etc). A total of about
40 units.
How do you choose the fabrics? Are they
unique to TCB?
Well, that Zimbabwean cotton was used
had not been decided at first. Cotton close to '50s Levi's was chosen
by what I have in mind. And if the producer was checked after that,
it was revealed to be a Zimbabwe [cotton]. That's the first trigger.
I think the feel of a material peculiar to Zimbabwe charms a wearer.
Do you live in Kurashiki? It's a
beautiful town, you're very lucky!
I'm not born in Kurashiki. I wanted to
make and [the opportunity] to make jeans came in Kurashiki.
Thanks to Inoue-San for sparing some time to talk to me - and for making such beautiful workwear!
