Friday, 10 February 2012

Veldtschoen Variations

I mentioned I'd do a roundup of Veldtschoen boots available today. Here's a quick and dirty summary, which I'll update as I find more information.


Alfred Sargent Selkirk and Kelso




The boots that came in from the cold: Alfred Sargent Kelso, fresh from a tramp through the Medway snow.

These were the classic recent Veldtschoens - note the distinctive 'moustache' shape of the vamp, which doesn't extend to the sole. The Selkirk is the leather sole version. These were discontinued last year, but larger sizes are still available from Tredders and others, and have recently shot up in price to around £200-£250. A pair of Kelso are my Go-to boots, completely waterproof in the recent snow. I have heard there are plans to resuscitate this model: I'll update if and when this happens.

Cheaney Pennine



Again a true Veldtschoen. These cost £270 from RObinson Shoes. This Commando sole is common for military use, and is called the Itshide; sadly, Itshide have ceased production, although Corinium still produce a UK Commando equivalent. These are fine boots, although that's a Country Grain, not a Zug Grain, and most shops that previously sold Sargent seem to have switched.

Shipton & Henneage Pennine


Are these the same boots as the Cheaney? Look it. They don't state they're Veldtschoen, although my guess is that they are. Shipton And Henneage are an old brand, they've never made their own boots as far as I know, but I've seen S&H Veldtschoen from the 1950s. Not sure who makes these, but I've read that Sargent used to supply - but proved too unreliable. They cost £249 from Shipton & Henneage. Note that, like the Cheaneys, these have a different construction to the Selkirk, and the vamp reaches the sole, more like a normal boot. If you like the look of these, subscribe to the S&H mailing list, they regularly have 15% off sales.

Herring Windermere


Again, a true Veldtschoen. Around £250 retail. Made by Joseph Cheaney. Like the Cheaney, these are country grain I believe, not zug - a little smoother. Website is here.

Hoggs Rannoch



Veldtschoen, Commando sole. I like the speed hooks, too; I believe the earlier version, without the speed hooks, is made by Alfred Sargent, while off-the-record reports indicate that this version is made by Cheaney. These seem to come in at the old Sargents price, under £200, from various retailers including SD Workwear; although they're reportedly not as nicely-made as the Sargent, that's a good price.

T Jackson


This comes from a retailer which is active on eBay. Made by Sanders, around £160. Link. Conventional storm welt, not a veldtschoen. They claim these use the same zug grain leathers as the Trickers, presumably from Horween. Note these have a different shape from both the Sargent and the Cheaney/S&H/Windermere.

Crockett & Jones Snowdon

Veldtschoen construction, but conventional waxed hide uppers. Again, you can see the military-influenced shape of the vamp, which has that 'moustache' shape like the Selkirks but sits higher on the boot. Lovely boots, which retail at around £385 from retailers like Pediwear


Trickers Lyndhurst
Lastly (yes), the Trickers. Photobucket
Tricker's have produced classic Veldtschoen in the past - there is a lovely pair in a showcase in their factory shops - see in the comments below for more information; it appears that in the past the Skipton was their Veldtschoen Zug boot, although they've also produced other variants for retailers. The Lyndhurst has much the same shape as the Grasmere, but it appears to be a Veldtschoen construction (the Grasmere has a conventional storm welt) with a full length bellows tongue. It appears similar to the Skipton, but for the latter's false toecap. The range is now discontinued - which makes the stock at Pediwear all the more attractive, at £285, with the old Tricker's quality. They appear to have Size 8 in stock - grab 'em while you can, and remove the temptation, please.

This is an older Tricker's model, with some of the familiar look; at first I was told they were available Special Order, but it now appears they're too busy with standard construction to mess around with Veldtschoen. Grrr.



The Bureau Grasmere Special

Not a Veldtschoen, but a beautiful zug boot. Like many of the Bureau specials, these are pretty keenly priced at £320. The Bureau

19 comments:

  1. Tricker's used to keep 3 pairs of Veldtshoens in stock.

    http://pediwear.co.uk/images/shoes/trickers/otleyskipton.jpg
    http://pediwear.co.uk/images/shoes/trickers/catterick.jpg
    (from http://web.archive.org/web/19991128221946/http://pediwear.co.uk/trickers1.html )


    By the way I found Zug advert by chance. Enjoy:)

    http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/stumpyj/RIMG6915.JPG
    (from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150748998102 )
    http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/images/a/a2/Im19320622Tat-Martin.jpg
    (from http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/W._and_J._Martin )

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  2. very interesting, thanks for posting. Oh, to be able to buy those boots for those prices...

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  3. Presumably Martin produced Zug, before Bridge of Wear. I will investigate at some point...

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  4. I remembered Edward Green's veldtshoen.
    http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/8788/egcat_pgs0607.jpg
    (from http://img114.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=egcat_pgs01.jpg)

    Heather Gorse is Zug.
    http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/bengal-stripe/Falkirk003.jpg
    (from http://thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7406&start=15)

    Only a country grain seems to be in stock now.
    http://issuu.com/edwardgreen/docs/eg_aw11?mode=window&pageNumber=46
    http://www.westleyrichards.co.uk/Shop/Edward-Green/Westley-Richards-Country-Boot


    >Presumably Martin produced Zug,

    I think that "Martin's black/medium brown (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WnuJJ6NLvJs/TxS10JsqvkI/AAAAAAAAAOI/69DFogCOs2Q/s1600/spring62.jpg)" was made by W&J Martin at that time.

    >before Bridge of Wear

    Bridge of Weir got W&J Martin's Baltic Works factory in the early nineteen nineties, but Bridge of Weir is now "Manufacturers of leather for the automotive, furniture, aircraft and marine industries". I don't know whether Bridge of Weir makes Zug for shoe upper leather or not.
    http://www.bridgeofweir.org/leather.html
    http://www.scottishleathergroup.com/ScottishLeatherGroup/OperatingCompanies/BOW_1.aspx

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  5. Having recently spoken to Mr. Church of Cheaney, I can confirm that S&H boots and shoes have for some time now been made by Cheaney.

    Perhaps that explains the similarity!

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  6. As, suspected as much, even though one employee told me otherwise last time I visited. Thanks, anonymous!

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  7. Cheaney make for Herring, too, and also Ducker of Oxford who had their own-branded Pennine in stock last year when I visited.

    VegTan - thanks for the info re Tricker's veldtschoen models; now I know that I own a Skipton and an Otley!

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  8. Hmmm - thanks very much you've just made me drop £200 on a pair of AS Kelsos, possibly the last remaining pair in the world in size 13.

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  9. Do Tricker's use leather from Horween, then? I got the impression from reading your (excellent) article that the zugs are made from leather supplied by Horween. That's news to me. I knew it was an American leather.

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  10. Being a bit of a boot nut, I've owned the Grasmere, Rannoch and the Cheaney shoe version of the boot. Had problems with both the Tricker's and Rannoch - leather went black, looked awful. Threw them. Cheaney is very nice, but as you say, it's brown grain not zug grain. Personally, I don't think you can get decent quality modern zug grain boots that will age nicely. I tend to buy vintage zug grain when I can get it. The old quality leather is no longer available.

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  11. Re Tricker's zug - I've been told it's definitely Horween. But thanks for reminding me, I'll do some zug research.

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    Replies
    1. It's interesting because I noticed that the Wolverine 1000 mile boot seems to age in a similar way to my Trickers e.g. very dark scuffing and discolouration of the leather. For example, see p. 90:

      http://www.styleforum.net/t/163864/wolverine-1000-mile-boot-review/1320

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  12. @anonymous 11:30, I am still very impressed by the quality of the Sargent Kelsos - they've survived the British winter and, worse still, the summer and still look great. The leather is a little more translucent than the Lotus zug grain, but is holding up just as well.

    I have found a good new retail source for Sargent Veldtschoen - unfortunately the photos are on a laptop that's been nicked, I'll post details once I've loaded the backup onto a replacement.

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    Replies
    1. Hi Paul,

      Very informative post - thanks for this.

      Was wondering though what the "good new retail source for Sargent Veldtschoen" was?

      Cheers.

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  13. Hi Paul,
    I'm on a slight tangent here as your article is about boots rather than shoes. You mention the Hoggs Rannoch, made for them by Cheaney. Hoggs also sell a shoe version of the Rannoch, and what appears to be a shoe version of the Crockett & Jones Snowdon (http://www.fifecountry.com/footwear/mens/british-made-welted-footwear/hoggs-dunoon-veldtscheon-1568). I base this purely on appearance, not having handled the actual shoe. The price - less than half - suggests that this cannot be. However, I have bought some of Hoggs' other shoes in the past and found they were made by Sargent, yet Hoggs were selling them at around half price or less, so I cannot discount the possibility.

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  14. These are my 40 year old George Webb Veldtshoen I commented on in the previous post
    Only worn three times before being stored!
    Anyone want a bargain????
    Size UK 8 but too narrow for me and since my accident I can not wear boots!
    http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g297/Aislingean/BOOTS/

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    Replies
    1. Hi Dave , I'd like a Bargain! Do you still have them for sale?

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    2. Hi, Are these boots still up for grabs? If so, you can contact me on pilgrfim264@hotmail.co.uk

      Thanks.

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  15. I've been trying to ask C&J whether they could make me a pair of veldtschoen Snowden boots, but, as a "semi-bespoke" service, hand sew the insole-innerlining-welt step instead of gemming. However, they don't seem to understand. Am I misunderstanding something about the construction, does anyone know?

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